About
Craigmillar Castle is one of Edinburgh's most striking and historically significant medieval monuments — a substantial courtyard castle of the 14th and 15th centuries that rises from a rocky ridge in the south of the city with commanding authority. Managed by Historic Environment Scotland, it is often described as 'Edinburgh's other castle' and offers an experience of medieval Scotland that is arguably more atmospheric and immersive than its famous counterpart on the rock above the Old Town. Where Edinburgh Castle is a living fortress adapted across centuries for modern functions, Craigmillar remains a ruined shell — and all the more evocative for it.
The castle's origins lie in the early 14th century, when the Preston family constructed the original tower house on this commanding site overlooking the Midlothian countryside. The Prestons extended their stronghold substantially in the 15th century, adding the remarkable inner courtyard with its round towers and high curtain wall — one of the finest examples of Scottish courtyard castle architecture of the period. A further outer enclosure was added in the 16th century, creating a complex of concentric defences that made Craigmillar one of the most formidable private fortresses in Lowland Scotland.
Craigmillar's enduring fame rests on its associations with Mary Queen of Scots, who retreated here in late 1566 following the traumatic murder of her secretary David Rizzio in the Palace of Holyroodhouse. The castle provided a refuge from the tensions and intrigues of the Edinburgh court, and it was here that a group of Mary's nobles gathered to discuss what was to be done about her estranged husband Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley. The resulting 'Craigmillar Conference' produced the agreement that led to Darnley's murder at Kirk o' Field in February 1567 — one of the most dramatic events in Scottish royal history and a turning point in Mary's fortunes.
The castle's ruins preserve a remarkable range of medieval architectural features: great hall with its fireplace and window seats, kitchen and service rooms, chapel, and the various chambers of the tower house — all accessible to visitors who can explore freely across multiple levels. The views from the upper levels encompass Edinburgh's skyline, Arthur's Seat, and the Midlothian countryside beyond, providing a sense of the castle's historical strategic importance.
Despite its historical significance and the quality of its ruins, Craigmillar receives a fraction of the visitor numbers of Edinburgh Castle, making it one of the capital's finest 'hidden' heritage experiences — genuinely atmospheric, freely explorable, and situated in a community that has worked hard to share this extraordinary monument with the wider public.
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Plan Your Visit
⏱️ Recommended Visit Duration
💡 Visitor Tips
- Visit on a weekday morning for the most atmospheric experience — the castle sees far fewer visitors than Edinburgh Castle and can feel genuinely deserted, especially in winter.
- Bring the HES audio guide or download it in advance — the castle's ruined state requires interpretation to fully appreciate its historical significance.
- Wear sturdy footwear: floors are uneven, surfaces can be slippery, and there are open stairwells in the tower house.
- The views from the upper levels are outstanding on a clear day — Edinburgh Castle, Arthur's Seat, and the Firth of Forth are all visible.
- Allow extra time to explore the outer enclosure — many visitors head straight for the tower house and miss the atmospheric outer courtyard.
- There is no cafe at Craigmillar; bring snacks and drinks and make use of the picnic grounds.
- The Historic Scotland Explorer Pass gives free entry to over 70 HES properties across Scotland — excellent value if visiting multiple sites.
- Combine with the Palace of Holyroodhouse (3 miles away) for a full day of Mary Queen of Scots history in Edinburgh.
Highlights
The 14th-Century Tower House
At the heart of Craigmillar stands the original 14th-century tower house constructed by the Preston family — a massive L-plan structure of immense solidity whose walls still rise to full height in places. The tower's interior is remarkably well preserved, allowing visitors to explore multiple floors including the great hall, the laird's private chamber, and the upper rooms from which vast views extend across Edinburgh and Midlothian.
The quality of the medieval stonework and the preservation of original features including fireplaces, windows, and floor-level drains give an exceptional sense of how this formidable residence functioned in the later Middle Ages.
The Inner Courtyard and Round Towers
The inner courtyard added by the Preston family in the 15th century is one of the finest examples of Scottish castellated architecture of the period. Its high curtain walls, anchored at the corners by substantial round towers, created a formidable defensive enclosure around the original tower house.
The round towers — equipped with gunloops for early firearms and corbelled parapets — reflect the military sophistication of 15th-century Scottish castle design.
The courtyard's fish pond, a rare survival of medieval domestic infrastructure, provided the castle's household with a ready supply of fresh fish and speaks to the self-sufficiency of a great medieval establishment.
Mary Queen of Scots' Retreat
The most powerfully evocative dimension of a Craigmillar visit is its deep connection with Mary Queen of Scots. After the brutal murder of her secretary David Rizzio in March 1566, a traumatised and heavily pregnant Mary retreated to Craigmillar for rest and recovery. It was here, in late November 1566, that her nobles gathered for the fateful Craigmillar Conference, during which they agreed to remove her troublesome husband Lord Darnley by whatever means necessary.
The interpretation at Craigmillar brings this extraordinary episode to life — few places in Scotland connect visitors so directly with the most dramatic moments of the 16th-century court.
The Great Hall
The great hall of Craigmillar Castle preserves its medieval proportions and several original features including a substantial fireplace, window seats, and the mural passage within the wall thickness that provided private circulation for the household. The hall was the social and ceremonial heart of the castle, where the lord feasted with his household, entertained guests, and administered justice.
At Craigmillar the hall retains enough of its fabric to allow visitors to imagine its original appearance and function — the benches along the walls, the high table at the dais end, the tapestries that would have covered the bare stone.
It is a room that speaks eloquently of medieval aristocratic life.
Collections
As a ruined monument in the care of Historic Environment Scotland, Craigmillar Castle's primary resource is its outstanding architectural fabric — one of the most complete and well-preserved courtyard castle complexes in Lowland Scotland. The site is interpreted through information panels, an audio guide, and HES publications that contextualise the castle within Scottish medieval history and the story of Mary Queen of Scots.
A small selection of interpretive materials is available at the ticket office, and the HES guidebook provides detailed historical and architectural analysis of the monument.
Craigmillar: Edinburgh's Other Castle
On-site interpretation panels throughout the castle covering the architectural development of the complex, the history of the Preston family, and the pivotal events of Mary Queen of Scots' retreat here in 1566.
The Craigmillar Conference
Focused interpretation on the fateful gathering of Mary's nobles in late 1566, the agreement reached here, and its consequences for Mary, Darnley, and the future of the Scottish crown.
Current Exhibitions
No current exhibitions. Please check the museum website for updates.
Nearby Museums (5 within 6 miles)
Ashworth Laboratories Natural History Collections (Aubrey Manning Gallery)
Natural Sciences
Edinburgh — ~26 min walk (1.4 mi)